The engineers compromised for the benefit of the end user, and that makes this new model perhaps the best of IWC yet. The rotor on the back— wow. His approach enlisted a sequential operation to the movement that fed the input of the changing date down the line rather than out in different directions for each function to react independently, and it had a rather pleasing side effect. It is equipped with features such as a perpetual calendar, a window showing the year in four digits and a 7-day automatic movement with Pellaton winding. The three variants of the new IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 bring sizes, prices, and visual complexity down for 2020, now allowing for a lower point of entry into the world of Portugieser Perpetual Calendars at $22,000. The best speakers in the world, the ones that cost as much as a row of houses, that are designed by the greatest audio engineers of our generation, may sound like the recording is playing back live right in front of you—but they’re often ugly as sin. To mark the occasion, the company has created a limited edition Jubilee collection comprised of more than two dozen references with special white or blue lacquered dials. Especially when it comes to their iconic pieces. The finish on the dials is achieved by adding up to 12 coats of transparent lacquer, firing in an oven and then manual flat polishing to create an enamel-like effect. There is no extra complication for showing the moonphase in north and south latitudes, it’s a printed disc, and for me only complicates reading what should be easy. In talking with watch aficionados about the brand, some will acknowledge loving a particular model, but will further confess that it’s just a bit too wide or a bit too thick for them to take the leap. IW344202 and IW344205). The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Story. And we stock a lot of beautiful watches! While the previous version was powered by the 51613 caliber, the 2015 edition features the 52610 caliber. The sapphire glass back from various angles showing different parts of the movement There aren’t many people who want to gag every time they sit down to listen to a bit of Diana Krall. 2020 Monochrome, Stay up to date with the latest post and updates. Directly across at 3 o’clock is another sub-dial housing the power reserve indicator and the date, while the month is shown on a third sub-dial at 6 o’clock. But that’s what Klaus did, designing this new perpetual calendar from the ground up, hand-sketching his engineering drawings—this was of course a long time before the CAD software Solidworks—advancing an age-old complication that had operated in much the same way since the 1700s. With IWC introducing so many limited-edition references for its 150 th anniversary this year (there are 27 in total), it’s been hard work picking a favourite. Klaus’ mentality for refinement, that engineering approach, stemmed from his training by IWC Technical Director Albert Pellaton. Typically, a Swiss watchmaker is very traditional, is the last to embrace new technologies, will do things the old way even if the new way is better. The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Edition “150 Years” is only available with the white lacquer dial, which I think makes sense given the level of indications displayed. Contact tmosso@thewatchbox.com for pricing and availability; Either I have it, or I can get it! Big difference on legibility and functionality. In the model with the double moon display, the moon phase and its mirror image show the state of the moon in both the northern and southern hemispheres. Today, IWC introduces an update of their entire Portugieser collection. One of the big draws of IWC for a lot of people—myself included—is the engineering. THE IWC PORTUGUESE PERPETUAL CALENDAR . Please enter your e-mail address Please review your email address. The year is displayed in four digits via an aperture just below 8 o’clock. HK. Comparing the old and new IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar. This week we received into stock the IWC Shaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar watch in 18ct red gold (ref #IW503302). Do the date, day and month turn at midnight or do they gradually progress? the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar has a price of Euro 22,700 in stainless steel and Euro 32,800 in red gold (ref. 5045 is uniquely located at 12 o’clock, whilst the moon phase is integrated into the four weeks screen at 6 o’clock. For the first time, the famous IWC calendar complication is integrated in an IWC-manufactured movement from the 82000-calibre family. On the outer track of that same sub-dial are the days of the week for the perpetual calendar. Turning the watch over reveals the IWC-manufactured 52615 Calibre, visible through the sapphire display back. A compact automatic style in the iconic Portugieser design, a new model with the legendary perpetual calendar, a nautical sports chronograph with an elegantly proportioned case, and the first watch fitted with a tide indication. When someone mentions Grand Seiko, you probably think of the Snowflake, or Tudor, the Black Bay, or Nomos, the Tangente, but when someone mentions IWC, depending on your personal watch collecting preferences, one of two watches might pop up: the Big Pilot’s Watch or this one, the Portuguese Automatic. The headline act in IWC’s 2015 line-up is the Portugieser Annual Calendar, an assured new take on an old favourite. John Cleese once said, “Technology is designed by engineers to impress other engineers” and he’s kind of right. The timepiece, which has a diameter of 42 millimetres, displays the calendar information on three subdials. First introduced in 2003, this watch has been subject to minor changes every couple of years, without dramatically changing its recognizable identity. As with all watches in the Portugieser family (in fact pretty much all IWC watches) the Annual Calendar is a big chunk of metal. Pellaton … The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon reference IW394005 was introduced in 2020. Extremely accurate, this perpetual calendar display will not need correction until the year 2100 (assuming the watch is kept continually running, which is highly unlikely). The IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar is such a piece. In talking with watch aficionados about the brand, some will acknowledge loving a particular model, but will further confess that it’s just a bit too wide or a bit too thick for them to take the leap. IWC goes back to the original German name. IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Perpetual Double Moonphase $ 46,402. This particular watch has struck me as being perhaps the most beautiful watch we stock. Building on the template provided by the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon of the 150th anniversary collection, it features a 'Armor' red gold case of 45mm, which holds the self-winding caliber 51950 movement. Instead you get a leap year indicator in the day window, more than enough to set the watch by. The moon phase display on the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar diverges by just 1 day in 577.5 years from the actual phase of the moon. IWC’s newly revamped Portugieser line includes a new Perpetual Calendar wristwatch in 42 mm which features a new in-house integrated perpetual calendar movement. A little ‘N’ and an ‘S’ indicate each hemisphere. 5034 is available starting at €37.900,- Euro. The white lacquer looks sensational and makes the blued hands and various blue highlights really pop. For the first time, the famous IWC calendar complication is integrated in an IWC-manufactured movement from the 82000-calibre family. From a three hands watch to a perpetual calendar. Some people have a bit of a love-hate relationship with IWC. A new perpetual calendar model enriches IWC's Portugieser collection. IWC Schaffhausen presents the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42. Watchmaker Kurt Klaus, who joined the organisation as a boy in 1956, was unsatisfied by the way a perpetual calendar, as constructed traditionally, did not change all its indications at the same time at the stroke of midnight. This new timepiece is available in three versions including a handsome blue boutique edition. The moon phase display on the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar diverges by just 1 day in 577.5 years from the actual phase of the moon. I mean, when you think about the person wearing the watch, there aren’t many scenarios where they need to glance at their wrist to remind themselves what year it is, so in the name of making the watch more appealing to wear, that’s gone. IWC utilizes a 45mm wide Portugieser situation for that Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month which is obtainable in 18k red gold having a black dial, 18k red gold having a silver-coated dial, as well as in platinum having a silver-coated dial. Only problem is that there are way too many years to get through, and the watch must inevitably be readjusted by IWC itself. The truth is either platinum or Armor gold and limited by 50 items each. Gone is the fourth subdial, now the new one has only three in the conventional 3,6,9 layout. For the first time, the famous IWC calendar complication is integrated in an IWC-manufactured movement from the 82000-calibre family. Hands-On – IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition ... © 2006– Arguably IWC’s signature complication, the ingenious perpetual calendar with four digit year display is part of the face-lifted and streamlined Portugieser collection, powered by the new calibre 52000 seven day automatic movement. From the look of the photos supplied by IWC, this is a good looking high complication whose white-metal case is a perfect match for its silver-plated dial. And it doesn’t mean the watch no longer fulfils the IWC brief of being the best engineered you can buy—if anything, it’s the opposite. Where most watchmakers are happy to follow the tried and true methods of watchmaking, IWC seeks to improve. I agree to my personal data being stored and used to receive the newsletter or other updates about Monochrome Watches. The date changes gradually from 23:40 to Midnight, while the day (and month) move halfway to the next setting during this time period, then switch over to the correct between 00:02 – 00:04. IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Automatic Blue Dial Men's... $ 32,993. To complete the look, the watch is worn on a black alligator leather strap by Santoni. Portugieser (it sounds like a Mr. doesn’t it) was perhaps feeling left out so now one of IWC’s best selling watch collections gets the “Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month” treatment. Contact tmosso@thewatchbox.com for pricing and availability; Either I have it, or I can get it! 229. Available in a limited edition of 250 pieces, pricing is set at EUR 40,200. IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Double Moon Ref. This not only improves the wearability of the watch, but it also eradicates an often-overlooked concern of the Klaus perpetual calendar mechanism that only ever seemed to exist to—recalling Cleese again—impress other engineers. The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “75th Anniversary” is powered by IWC’s own in-house Calibre 89801. This is different to the standard model, which just displays the moon phase in a single hemisphere. Hours and minutes are displayed centrally, while small seconds are shown on the inner track of the sub-dial at 9 o’clock. The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar. ... "Portugieser" is a noun, like in "the new Portugieser" and "Portugiese" is an incorrect spelling of the adjective . As many of you know, I used to be an engineer, and I can see in the behaviour of the company, the way it develops its products, that there’s something different to your usual watchmaker. Now 15 years old, the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar was almost always a 44.2 mm watch powered by a 7-day automatic movement (though IWC installed the same movement in the smaller, 42.3 mm ref. Speakers are a great example. There’s a marked difference in a product that’s had the input of someone who’s expertise is in understanding the wants and needs of the end user, and for engineers, that kind of mumbo jumbo is often considered folly. The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 is smaller—around 2mm smaller, as you can tell by the name—but perhaps more importantly, thinner by over a millimetre. So, it’s now time for us to compare the […] But not anymore. It’s also a message that resonates with the entire brand, because whilst this Portugieser Perpetual Calendar and the models before it both share Klaus’ revolutionary calendar mechanism and Pellaton’s ingenious winding system, it has still moved the game forwards for IWC. As you can imagine, it’s not an easy device to master when following the traditional approach, let alone redesigning it from scratch. For Watches & Wonders 2020, IWC debuts the all-new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 that’s simpler and far more affordable. 42mm x 13.8mm case in either stainless steel or 5N gold, water resistant to 3 bar. The elegant timepiece leaves virtually no wish unfulfilled. The previous version was named the “IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar” – the new one is named “IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar”. So, you lose some fidelity, to borrow a speaker term, but you gain usability. Let’s find out how. They are simply not proportionate to the wrist, and become too much an attention seeking fashion accessory. The first IWC perpetual calendar mechanism was introduced in 1985. Today IWC is introducing a new platinum version of its perpetual calendar in the Portugieser line. The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar ref. IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “150 Years” (SIHH 2... IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition 150 Years (SIHH 2018). Schaffhausen, 24 April 2020 – IWC Schaffhausen adds attractive new models to the Portugieser family. Rigorously thought through and developed to meet users’ needs with a focus… Your email address Sign up. Looking for an IWC watch? In rose gold, the IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar 5035 has a list price of €32.000,- Euro. In his eyes, everything could always be improved, and it was a message that stuck with a young Klaus. But first, let’s do a quick rundown of the Portugieser and why it is such an iconic watch. IWC LAUNCHES NEW PORTUGIESER PERPETUAL CALENDAR MODELS Schaffhausen, 25 April 2020 – IWC Schaffhausen presents the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42. Thanks to its compact dimensions, the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar IW3442 has a case diameter of just 42 mm. Review: IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Some people have a bit of a love-hate relationship with IWC . In case you don’t know, a perpetual calendar is a complication in a watch that allows it to tell you the exact date regardless of month and year, accommodating changes in month length, even in February and even on a leap year. Some will find the 44.2mm case width off-putting, especially on a watch that could hardly be called slim, but to be fair it’s a size in line with the 1939 original. The IWC Portugieser has, in many ways, been the daddy of modern perpetual-calendar wristwatches. Presented in the same 18k red gold case, measuring 44.2mm x 14.9mm, it’s definitely not a small watch on the wrist, but it’s still quite comfortable, and the larger size means there’s plenty of room for all the various indications shown on the dial. IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Edition “150 Years”. Now, please don’t misunderstand me—previous iterations of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar are most certainly not ugly, but at 44.3mm in diameter and 14.9mm thick, you can tell the engineering influence of the brand won over the concession to make the watch appealing to a broader audience. Finishing of the movement is understated in the traditional IWC style, well-executed without being over the top providing a nice backdrop for the 18kt red gold rotor. Unlike the classic and straightforward Portugieser Perpetual Calendar, the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month has a cleaner-looking dial. Striking design, practical complexity and a dial I could stare at for hours, it really does offer a lot of watch for the money. A Review by Harry SK Tan. Eye-catching on the wrist, it definitely takes some confidence to wear the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Edition “150 Years” (IW503405). As you have already read countless times by now, IWC is celebrating its 150th anniversary. Đồng hồ IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar là bộ máy thuộc dòng máy caliber 52000, được IWC nâng cao thời gian dự trữ năng lượng lên tới 7 ngày. Besides correctly changing from February to March without interference and a year indicator, the Perpetual Calendar also indicates the Moon phases. The blue dial Portugieser Chronograph is certainly high on the list, as of course is the Tribute to Pallweber. explains Georges Kern, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen . We at Monochrome obviously love IWC watches. With IWC introducing so many limited-edition references for its 150th anniversary this year (there are 27 in total), it’s been hard work picking a favourite. Click here to shop now. History is rife with incredible engineers who made incredible things that didn’t succeed. The watch no longer needed a series of hidden pushers to adjust the day, date, month and year—it could all be done with a turn of the crown. The new IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 starts at £19,700 (Steel). The winding pawls and the automatic wheel are made of black ceramic, while the rotor bearing is made of white ceramic, dramatically reducing the wear on the winding system. Enter for a chance to win a pre-ownedRolex Explorer worth CHF 7.965*. The movement – calibre 51613 vs. calibre 52610. Please choose your region and preferred language. Operating at a steady 4Hz, the movement is equipped with 54 jewels and features the “150 years” limited edition engraving on the rotor and around the case back. Professional dealer. So, if IWC has got the engineering side of things well and truly covered, how does this new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar improve upon its predecessor? Sir Clive Sinclair’s Sinclair C5, Sega’s Game Gear, Philips’ LaserDisc—all incredible inventions that, at the time, had no audience to fulfil them. Personally, I love it, although obviously, I couldn’t see myself wearing it on a daily basis. IWC was founded by Florentine Ariosto Jones in 1868. The tourbillon carriage on the replica IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Ref. The Portugieser has always been a beautiful looker—and a big watch—developed for simplicity and accuracy rather than as a work of form-led design, and for many, that extreme focus on functionality has given them pause for thought. Pellaton, himself a fastidious watchmaker, engineered the Pellaton winding system, a mechanism that simultaneously reduces the complexity of a typical winding system, introduces two directions of winding instead the standard one, and even incorporates shock resistance into this otherwise delicate area of the movement. For the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42, IWC has managed to hit that rare, sweet balance right in the middle. “With the new Da Vinci collection, IWC Schaffhausen has returned to the round case that was so successfully establishedvby the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar in 1985.It meansvwe are bidding farewell to the tonneau case and reaffirmingvour commitment to the classic proportions the brandvstands for,” . IWC Schaffhausen presents the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42. It’s not been developed to impress Klaus, or Pellaton, or any other watchmaker—it’s been engineered to impress us, and I’m pretty sure it’s working. IWC is different. Sometimes engineering is done for engineering’s sake, fixing problems engineers want to fix rather than ones the audience wants fixed. 5022 for several years). This self-winding movement is an improved version of the Calibre 89360, in which the latter is the culmination of 4 years of hard work by a team from the Schaffhausen based watchmaker. Powered by the in-house automatic caliber 82650, beating at 28,800 vph and running in 46 jewels with 60 hours of power reserve. IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar with a midnight blue dial Ref IW503502 The steel IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar is available with a silver-plated or midnight blue dial. Really nice, but really too big. One of the big engineering boasts of the IWC perpetual calendar has been the full year display, all four numbers of it, right there on the dial. IWC hasn’t discontinued the Portuguese, sorry, Portugieser from the range, but it has given us a more classically styled perpetual calendar dress watch. Founded by an engineer, Florentine Ariosto Jones in 1868, having a watch in its collection called the engineer, the Ingenieur, and bound by a motto that speaks of solid engineering, Probus Scafusia, IWC is a company that prides itself on making watches that—no prizes for guessing—are well-engineered. Well, IWC’s been listening, because now there’s this: the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42, and it just might be the perfect IWC. From a technical standpoint, the limited edition Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Edition “150 Years” is relatively unchanged from the standard model (IW503302). If I had to choose just one, however, I think it would have to be the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Edition “150 Years” (IW503405). It’s a shame, because IWC makes some of the best-looking watches in the business, is up there with the top dogs on spec and truly offers a chunk of watchmaking history that no modern brand can hope to replicate. Don’t get me wrong, the monochromatic blue dial models look sensational, but they don’t provide as much contrast as the white dials, which I think could make the ‘busier’ watches more difficult to read. IWC’s perpetual calendar module, first developed by legendary watchmaker Kurt Klaus in the early 1980’s, sits on top of this base movement. With the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42, IWC integrated this popular complication into an in-house movement from the 82000-calibre family. A variation of the 52000 calibre family, which is found in a number of Portugieser timepieces, it features a bidirectional Pellaton pawl-winding system and two barrels, resulting in a healthy 7-day power reserve. Technical Director Albert pellaton Euro 32,800 in iwc portugieser perpetual calendar review gold ( ref # )! 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